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Let's Talkabout

Epitomising what good Australian design can be, Hannah McNicol entwines our need for luxurious, free, lifestyle wear. She talks us through adornment, the power of femininity and Sydney's best kept secrets.

Tell us a little about your business?
We began the business three months after my son was born, in 2004, about six months after I got back from Italy. We have two labels, the first being Hannah McNicol, which is sold exclusively through our store in Paddington Street, and the second Bumpology that is a maternity label, sold exclusively through the online store. I have an agent/showroom in Paris for HM and we're about to explore the USA and Canada for Bumpology. It's a ride owning your own business, ups and downs but ultimately I wouldn't have it any other way!

How did your journey start?
I had been in Italy for eight years and worked for Costume National and Marni, then [moved] into freelance designing. When I became pregnant I knew I wanted to bring my child up in Australia, close to the beaches and plenty of outdoor activity and colour. I loved Milan but it was time to come home. I was looking for a job in the industry here but was getting nowhere and was told quite mater of factly by a recruitment agency that I was unemployable because I had no experience in Australia. I was dumbfounded and decided to start my own thing!

How do your ideas come about?
Ideas happen very organically. It might be an article I read in the newspaper, or a quote that makes ultimate sense to me. Often dreams give me half of the collections. I love photography and take a lot of photos as well as watching other photographers and artists. I love stencil graffiti! Recently I've been doing a lot more draping too, which has been brilliant to see an idea quickly in 3D and then be able to develop the idea quickly also. Sketching has always been my thing though. Give me my trusty pacer bought from Japan and a block of A4 paper, some good music and all of the above starts rolling out and begins making sense with a thread through the work.

Who do you admire?
God it's endless and often changing but my staples are the conceptual designers, Margiela, Demeulmeester, Preen, Yoji, Viktor and Rolf. I like their intelligent ideas and sense of humour. Clever designers are the ones where you say, " God damn it! So simple yet so brilliant with a tone of 'I wish I'd thought of that!" I can tell you certainly that I'm not into bling and 'ass for asses' sake fashion.

What are the benefits and falls of producing your collections in Sydney?
Benefits are indeed the fact that you have more control and can resolve problems a lot quicker than producing overseas. Although I drive around a lot here in Sydney, going from cutter to maker to button hole guy etc, it certainly does not cost me what shipping used to me and I don't pay import taxes and duty theses days either, at least on HM. I have produced in Italy, China, Indonesia and Australia now - Australia has been the country of least fuss, however the pitfalls are that the industry is really suffering and there is no new blood going into manufacturing. The existing manufacturers are all feeling the pressure of most work being done offshore, so I believe in supporting our local industry. I think the government should step up also and recognise it needs help.

On the downside, there are some things you just can't do here, like beautiful embroideries (that's India’s specialty). The Australian pricing is more expensive but our clients like the fact that we produce here. Having said that, Bumpology is produced in Indonesia, as we decided to make the range in 100% Certified Organic Cotton. Yes we can find that here in Australia and New Zealand but I could not find anyone who was dying the fabric in a natural way. I kept saying if I have to dye the organic cotton in chemical dyes then that is defeating the purpose. We found a brilliant dyer in Indonesia who does exactly what we were looking for. They spent seven years perfecting the technique and have been in business now for four years. All of the dyes are extracted from various leaves such as Mango and Indigo. The village around them brings leaves to these guys when a tree has fallen or been cut down. I just love it the fact that there is community behind these guys and that it's all natural!

Can you talk us through the aesthetic and function of your boutique retail space in Paddington?
We made the decision to go retail and open the boutique back in August 2008. I felt that although we were wholesaling into some great boutiques around Australia, the collection was getting lost in amongst these multi-brand stores and the HM 'philosophy' was getting completely lost. The idea of the boutique is to show the public just what we are about. We began researching materials and concepts, and it all happened day to day without a definite design or plan. Through my amazing builders we met some great companies that are really forward thinking in their own business' and pushing boundaries with their research and materials.

Axolotl created the metal 'moon like' floor and covered all of the cabinets in a snakelike metal finish! If you've got a magnet in your pocket you get stuck in the shop! I have a love for all things natural, but instead of going in a 'wood' direction we went completely metal. We have a beautiful silver gilded wall at the back of the store and another wall covered in 'stucco' (an old Italian technique) that shines with a deep dark purple. You can see your reflection in it! My love for all things a bit macabre brought about the curtain for the change room - It looks quite heavy and is attached to the roof with metal rings and a big black rope (a bit S &M!) I have always loved ropes too so we have them hanging in the window and around the space. I have an life size artwork on the wall done by my dearest girlfriend Alexia Sinclair who is an Award winning photographer and digital artist. The piece is entitled ‘The Lady of Justice’ and is in a series of three images (you can see them on the website) She hangs very proudly in the store and makes me feel that we have our own angel taking care of us. We are soon to have more artwork hanging in the store also. More to be revealed in the coming weeks. Stay tuned!

Can you share the story behind one of your latest collections/what you’re working on now?
The latest collection was for AW2010/11 for our Paris showroom/agent. It is entitled "PAX NEMISIS - The story of Diana and Invidia - The lasso of Truth". The collection was inspired by anatomy and in particular muscles. We then got into Wonder Woman and her origins. She is an intense character that has more to her than the comic strip, although the comic certainly gives insight into her origins as well. Wonder Woman was created from ‘The Amazons’ who were a nation of all-female warriors in Greek Mythology. During the Silver Age of comic books she was revamped and given even stronger ties to her Hellenic roots. Diana was destined to become "beautiful as Aphrodite, wise as Athena, stronger than Hercules, and swifter than Mercury." I always play with juxtapositions, so the idea of having Diana aka Wonder Woman in a battle of wills with her ultimate nemesis was very appealing to me. We shot the lookbook with my favorite photographer Nick Hudson@DLM and hair and makeup artist extraordinaire Kimberley Forbes@RP Represents as she has done the album covers of some of my favorite musicians eg. SIA amongst others. The team understood the concept immediately and as a result we have a lookbook which is more than a generic lookbook. All of the graphic work was done by another extraordinary being Haylee Rockcliff. Very proud of the results and also of the people that I am lucky enough to work with.

What is the key to contemporary dressing?
I believe it's about not over thinking or over dressing. Me myself, I'm a jeans and t-shirt girl, a bit of a Tom Boy really. I still believe in androgynous dressing - Finding the right mix between a male and female aesthetic. I do love a 'sexy it up moment' too, and pretty much I'm always in heels unless its raining and then I'm in my gumboots! I shall be cursed and struck down by lightning by saying this but the whole Sex and the City thing, man… too much. What are those desert outfits, honestly?

What’s Sydney’s best-kept secret (outside of your business)?
I am a creature of serious habit so when I find what I like I stick to it like glue. I spend my every morning at the cafe Gusto's in Five Ways, Paddington. James, our barista makes, and you can quote me, THE BEST COFFEE in Sydney, plus he's a divine guy who always has some serious music pumping, gives me tips on music I should listen to, takes amazing photos and is generally a super dude. I sit outside, come rain, hail or, bless, some sun. I read the newspaper, have a chat to all the other regulars, drink my large latte and then head to the studio, which is behind the boutique. My other favorite place to go is the beautifully revamped London Hotel. It's magic upstairs and the courtyard out the back is brilliant in summer. It such a great place to meet for a drink and a chat and the kids are allowed inside too. All the staff there are the best. It sometimes feels like a home away from home! I'm a big fan of Pocket Bar and Shady Pines Saloon in Darlinghurst. The problem with best kept secrets is that you should really keep them to yourself!


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